Nickel or palladium in the balance, rhodium plated on top. The commonest American white metal.
The American standard, and widespread in Germany and eastern Europe
14 karat white gold uses nickel or palladium to bleach the gold's colour, and like all white gold it is rhodium-plated to reach the bright cold white that buyers expect. Because 14 karat contains more alloy than 18 karat, nickel-based 14 karat white gold is often whiter before plating — and correspondingly more likely to provoke a nickel sensitivity.
The rhodium wears. On a ring worn daily, expect a yellowish or warm-grey cast on the underside of the shank within a year or two, and plan on replating as routine maintenance rather than a repair. It is inexpensive and quick.
If skin reactions are a concern, ask specifically whether the alloy is nickel or palladium based. Both are sold as 14 karat white gold, they cost differently, and only one of them commonly causes contact dermatitis.
These apply to this model and not to the rest of 585. Work them alongside the maker's general checks, not instead of them.
White gold turning faintly yellow-grey at the contact points is the rhodium plating wearing off genuine white gold. Plated brass reveals pink or orange instead, which is a different and unmistakable colour.
Both are legitimate. Nickel alloys are whiter, cheaper and a common dermatitis trigger; palladium alloys are greyer before plating, more expensive and hypoallergenic in practice.
Same gold content as yellow 14k. Rhodium replating is a recurring maintenance cost.
An orientation for honest, unrestored condition — never an appraisal, and never a quotation.
Lovenhall RingThe mark tells you what the metal claims to be. The instrument reads the setting and the stones together and gives a range to orient you — before anyone charges you for an appraisal.