- How can I tell if an opal is real?
- First establish the construction by looking at the stone edge-on: a flat glue line means a doublet, two lines and a clear domed cap mean a triplet, and continuous material front to back means solid. Then check the colour behaves like diffraction — distinct patches that flare and vanish as you tilt it, not a fixed pattern or a uniform milky glow. And expect it to feel light, since opal's specific gravity is only about 2.09.
- What is the difference between opal and opalite?
- Opalite is manufactured glass with no opal in it. It produces a uniform milky blue-white glow that never resolves into distinct colour patches, where genuine opal's play-of-colour breaks into discrete patches of spectral colour that shift and flare as the stone moves. A loupe usually finds round bubbles in opalite.
- Why is my opal cracking?
- Crazing — a network of fine surface cracks caused by water loss. Opal contains between about three and twenty-one percent water, and losing it stresses the structure. Heat, dry air, direct sunlight and sudden temperature changes all accelerate it, and once started it cannot be reversed. Ethiopian hydrophane material is especially susceptible.
- Are opal doublets and triplets fake?
- No. They are legitimate constructions that exist because precious opal often occurs in seams too thin to cut solid — a slice of genuine opal cemented to a dark backing, with a clear cap in a triplet. The issue is only ever disclosure and price, since a solid stone of the same face size can be worth a hundred times more.
- Can opal go in water?
- Solid Australian opal tolerates brief contact but should not be soaked or ultrasonically cleaned. Doublets and triplets must be kept dry, because water penetrates the cement and clouds or lifts the join. Hydrophane opal, much of it Ethiopian, absorbs water outright and can crack as it dries, so it should be kept away from water entirely.