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Lovenhall Stone

How to Identify Opal

Hydrated silica with no crystal structure. Light for its size, easily cracked, and sold as doublets and triplets far more often than solids.

Australia (Lightning Ridge, Coober Pedy), Ethiopia, Mexico, Brazil6 field tests

Opal is hydrated silica — silica spheres packed in a regular array with water between them, holding anywhere from three to twenty-one percent water by weight. It has no crystal structure at all, which makes it a mineraloid rather than a mineral, and the water content is why it behaves unlike any other gem material: it is light, it is fragile, and some of it can crack simply from drying out.

The colour play, properly called play-of-colour, comes from light diffracting off that sphere array. Sphere size determines which wavelengths come back, which is why some opal shows only blue and green and the rare stones show red. It is a structural effect, so like labradorescence it must move and change as the stone moves — a fixed pattern that does not shift is not play-of-colour.

The commercial complication is construction. A large proportion of opal jewellery is not solid opal but a doublet — a thin slice of opal glued to a dark backing — or a triplet, which adds a clear cap on top. Both are legitimate products made because precious opal occurs in thin seams, and both are worth a small fraction of a solid stone of the same face size. The give-away is visible from the side.

The measured properties

Solid, doublet, triplet, and synthetic

The first question about any opal is not whether it is real but how it is built, because that decides most of the price. Take the stone out of its setting if you can, or look at it edge-on through the side of the bezel, and look for glue lines.

A solid opal shows continuous material from front to back, with the play-of-colour extending into the depth of the stone. A doublet shows a sharp flat boundary between a thin colour layer and a dark backing. A triplet shows two boundaries and a domed, glassy, perfectly clear top.

At a glance
ConstructionWhat you see from the sideRelative value
Solid opalContinuous material front to back; colour has depthThe full value — Australian black opal at the top
DoubletOne flat glue line; thin colour layer over dark backingA small fraction of a solid stone
TripletTwo glue lines; a clear domed cap over a thin colour sliceLowest of the three; often a few dollars
Synthetic opalRegular columnar 'snakeskin' or lizard-skin pattern; too orderlyManufactured; low, and should be disclosed
Opalite / glassMilky blue glow with no play-of-colour at allGlass. Not opal in any sense

Doublets and triplets are legitimate and long-established, and the problem is only ever whether the description and the price match the construction.

The tests

How Opal is settled

Ordered by how much each one proves. The decisive tests are worth your first two minutes; the supporting ones only matter once those agree.

01Decisive

Look at the stone edge-on for glue lines

This is the single most valuable check and it is purely visual. A doublet shows one flat, straight boundary where the opal slice meets its dark backing, often with a faint difference in lustre across it. A triplet shows two, plus a clear domed cap whose curvature is suspiciously perfect. A solid opal shows continuous material with an irregular natural boundary if any. If the stone is bezel-set, look for a setting deliberately deep enough to hide the girdle — that is itself a signal.

02Decisive

Move the stone and watch the colour patches change

Genuine play-of-colour is diffraction, so the patches must shift, flare and die as the viewing angle changes, and different colours should dominate from different directions. A pattern that stays fixed as you tilt the stone is a printed, foiled or coated imitation. Opalite and 'sea opal' glass show a milky blue-white glow that does not resolve into patches at all.

03Strong

Judge the weight, and expect it to be low

Opal's specific gravity is about 2.09, which is remarkably low — lighter than quartz, lighter than glass, lighter than almost any gem material. A stone that feels heavy for its size is not opal. This is one of the few cases where lightness is the confirming property.

04Strong

Look for the columnar snakeskin of synthetic opal

Laboratory-grown opal is real hydrated silica but its sphere array is too regular, which produces a distinctive pattern: colour patches arranged in a repeating cellular or columnar structure, often described as snakeskin or lizard skin, and frequently with a visible columnar structure when viewed from the side. Natural opal's patches are irregular in size and outline.

05Strong

Ask where Ethiopian material has been

Much Ethiopian opal is hydrophane, meaning it absorbs water — it can turn transparent, lose its colour play temporarily, and sometimes crack as it dries again. It also takes dye and smoke treatment readily, which is used to imitate black opal. A dark Ethiopian stone should be assumed treated until stated otherwise, and hydrophane opal should never be submerged, ultrasonically cleaned or worn in a bath.

06Supporting

Check for crazing under a loupe

Opal can develop a fine network of surface cracks called crazing as it loses water, and once started it does not stop. Under magnification and angled light, look for a web of hairline fractures across the surface. It is a condition matter rather than an authenticity one, but it destroys value and it is easy to miss in a shop's lighting.

What is sold in its place

What Opal is confused with, and what is sold as it

Opal's imitation market has three distinct layers, and only one of them is dishonest by nature. Doublets and triplets are honest construction methods that become fraud only through misdescription. Synthetic opal is a real manufactured material sold legitimately under its own name and fraudulently under nature's. And opalite is glass, sold as opal by people relying on the buyer not knowing what play-of-colour looks like.

The fourth issue is treatment rather than imitation, and it is concentrated in Ethiopian material: smoke treatment and dyeing to darken a stone and make its colour play read as black opal, which is worth many times more. This is the current growth area in opal misrepresentation.

The signs worth checking first

  • A flat glue line seen from the side: doublet or triplet, not solid.
  • A perfectly domed, glass-clear cap: triplet.
  • Colour patches in a repeating cellular snakeskin pattern: synthetic.
  • A milky blue glow with no distinct colour patches: opalite glass.
  • A pattern that does not change as you tilt it: printed, foiled or coated.
  • It feels heavy: opal's specific gravity is only about 2.09.
  • A very dark Ethiopian stone at a low price: assume smoke-treated or dyed.
  • A bezel deep enough to hide the girdle entirely: ask why.
The market

What Opal is actually worth

Specimen figures rather than gem figures, for material in honest condition. Most finds are worth very little, and saying so plainly is more useful than encouraging you.

Ranges by line
TypeWhat it typically fetchesWhat sets it
Opalite glassCents to a few dollarsNot opal
Triplet$5 – 40Construction, not the stone
Doublet$20 – 150Colour play across the face
Solid Ethiopian, untreated$10 – 80 a caratColour play, stability, treatment status
Solid Australian crystal or light opal$50 – 500 a caratBrightness, pattern, body tone
Fine Australian black opal, red play$1,000 – 15,000+ a caratRed on black is the ceiling

Opal is priced on brightness, the pattern of the colour play, body tone and — above all — whether red appears, since red requires the largest sphere sizes and is much the scarcest. Construction has to be settled before any of that matters.

Questions we are asked

How can I tell if an opal is real?
First establish the construction by looking at the stone edge-on: a flat glue line means a doublet, two lines and a clear domed cap mean a triplet, and continuous material front to back means solid. Then check the colour behaves like diffraction — distinct patches that flare and vanish as you tilt it, not a fixed pattern or a uniform milky glow. And expect it to feel light, since opal's specific gravity is only about 2.09.
What is the difference between opal and opalite?
Opalite is manufactured glass with no opal in it. It produces a uniform milky blue-white glow that never resolves into distinct colour patches, where genuine opal's play-of-colour breaks into discrete patches of spectral colour that shift and flare as the stone moves. A loupe usually finds round bubbles in opalite.
Why is my opal cracking?
Crazing — a network of fine surface cracks caused by water loss. Opal contains between about three and twenty-one percent water, and losing it stresses the structure. Heat, dry air, direct sunlight and sudden temperature changes all accelerate it, and once started it cannot be reversed. Ethiopian hydrophane material is especially susceptible.
Are opal doublets and triplets fake?
No. They are legitimate constructions that exist because precious opal often occurs in seams too thin to cut solid — a slice of genuine opal cemented to a dark backing, with a clear cap in a triplet. The issue is only ever disclosure and price, since a solid stone of the same face size can be worth a hundred times more.
Can opal go in water?
Solid Australian opal tolerates brief contact but should not be soaked or ultrasonically cleaned. Doublets and triplets must be kept dry, because water penetrates the cement and clouds or lifts the join. Hydrophane opal, much of it Ethiopian, absorbs water outright and can crack as it dries, so it should be kept away from water entirely.
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