The Lovenhall RegistryThe LovenhallRegistry
Lovenhall Stone

How to Identify Amber

Fossil tree resin, and the one material in this room with a decisive home test: it floats in salt water.

The Baltic coast, the Dominican Republic, Myanmar, Mexico7 field tests

Amber is tree resin that has polymerised and lost its volatile components over tens of millions of years. It is not a mineral — it is organic, and it was alive — which is why it behaves unlike everything else in this room: it is warm to the touch, light enough to float, soft enough to scratch with a fingernail, and it burns.

It is also faked more thoroughly than almost anything else, in four distinct ways. Plastic — usually polyester resin, phenolic or casein — is moulded to look like it. Copal, which is genuine tree resin but only thousands to a few million years old rather than tens of millions, is sold as amber. Pressed or reconstituted amber is real amber powder fused under heat and pressure. And 'inclusions' are manufactured, by embedding modern insects in resin.

The saving grace is that amber's low density gives it a test almost nothing else in gemmology has: a decisive, free, at-home separation. Amber's specific gravity is about 1.05 to 1.09. Saturated salt water is about 1.15. Amber floats. Most plastics and all glass sink.

The measured properties

The salt water test, and the four things sold as amber

Dissolve as much table salt as will go into warm water — roughly two heaped tablespoons per cup, stirred until no more disappears — and let it cool. That brine reaches a specific gravity of around 1.15, which sits neatly above amber and copal and below almost every imitation.

Genuine amber and copal float, often just breaking the surface. Polystyrene may float too, so a float result should be confirmed with one more check. Polyester resin, phenolic plastics, casein, glass and every mineral sink. Rinse the piece in fresh water afterwards, because dried salt dulls the surface.

At a glance
MaterialSalt waterHot pin smellOther behaviour
Baltic amber (30–50 million years)FloatsSweet, resinous, like pine incenseWarm to touch; static lift after rubbing; fluoresces blue under UV
Copal (young resin)FloatsSweet and resinous, but softer and quickerSofter, tackier under solvent; often too-perfect insects
Pressed / reconstituted amberFloatsResinous — it is amberElongated 'sun spangle' bubbles; flow lines under a loupe
Polyester or phenolic resinSinksAcrid, chemical, like burning plasticMould seams; round bubbles; no static lift
GlassSinksNothing — it does not meltCold to the touch; hardness 5.5; scratches nothing

The two tests in the middle columns, run together, separate the field. Neither is difficult and neither needs equipment beyond salt, a pin and a lighter.

The tests

How Amber is settled

Ordered by how much each one proves. The decisive tests are worth your first two minutes; the supporting ones only matter once those agree.

01Decisive

Float it in saturated salt water

This is the best single test available for any material the house reads. Saturate warm water with table salt, let it cool, and drop the piece in. Amber at 1.05–1.09 specific gravity floats or hovers just under the surface; polyester resin, phenolic plastic, casein and glass all sink. Rinse in fresh water afterwards. The one caveat is polystyrene, which is light enough to float too, so pair a float result with the hot-pin test.

02Decisive

Touch a heated pin to a hidden spot and smell it

Heat a needle and press it briefly into an inconspicuous place — inside a drill hole, or on the back of a bead. Amber and copal give a distinctly sweet, resinous, incense-like smell, because that is exactly what they are. Plastic smells acrid and chemical. Glass does nothing at all. This is destructive on a microscopic scale, so do it once and out of sight.

03Decisive

Examine any insect with real suspicion

A fossil inclusion is the most valuable thing amber can contain and therefore the most manufactured. Genuine inclusions are usually incomplete, distorted, partly decayed, often accompanied by debris, bubbles and stress fractures radiating from the body, and the creature is typically in a natural struggling posture. A manufactured inclusion is a whole, perfect, recognisable modern insect, cleanly centred, with no surrounding debris — and frequently far too large. If it looks like a museum display, it was made to.

04Strong

Rub it hard on wool and see if it lifts paper

Amber is strongly triboelectric — it takes a static charge readily, enough to pick up small scraps of tissue paper or hair. The Greek word for amber, elektron, is where the word electricity comes from, which is a fair indication of how characteristic this is. Most plastics take a weaker charge and glass essentially none. Rub for twenty seconds on wool or your sleeve first.

05Strong

Put it under a UV lamp

Baltic amber fluoresces a distinct pale blue to blue-white under longwave ultraviolet, sometimes strikingly. Copal fluoresces much more weakly, usually a dull whitish. Most plastic imitations do not fluoresce in that way at all, though some fluoresce a flat white. A cheap UV torch makes this a two-second check.

06Strong

Scratch it with a fingernail, then look for a mould seam

Amber is 2–2.5 on the Mohs scale — a fingernail at about 2.5 will just mark it, and a copper coin certainly will. That softness also means genuine worked amber is cut and polished, never moulded, so a faint seam line, a flat sprue mark, or two matching halves with a join indicates a cast. Run a fingertip around the piece's equator.

07Supporting

Look for elongated spangles rather than round bubbles

Pressed amber — real amber powder fused under heat and pressure — is given away by its bubbles. They are drawn out into flattened, disc-like 'sun spangles' by the pressing, and the piece often shows faint flow lines or a slightly mottled, marbled structure where the fragments merged. Natural amber's bubbles are round or irregular and randomly placed.

What is sold in its place

What Amber is confused with, and what is sold as it

Amber has been imitated for as long as it has been traded, and the industry is mature. The high end of the fraud is Dominican and Burmese material with manufactured inclusions, where a genuine piece of young resin receives a modern insect and a very large price. The volume end is Baltic-style beads in polyester resin sold at markets and online in their thousands.

There is also a large, legitimate, poorly disclosed middle: pressed amber. It is genuine amber, reconstituted from fragments, and it is a perfectly reasonable product sold honestly. Sold as natural Baltic amber at natural prices, it is not.

One further note, because it comes up: 'amber' teething necklaces and the associated claims are outside what the house will comment on. The material question is the same as any other bead.

The signs worth checking first

  • It sinks in saturated brine: not amber, unless something is wrong with the brine.
  • A hot pin smells acrid rather than sweet: plastic.
  • A mould seam or a flat sprue mark: cast resin.
  • A perfect, whole, large modern insect, cleanly centred: a manufactured inclusion.
  • Flattened disc-shaped 'spangles' and flow lines: pressed amber, not natural.
  • Cold to the touch and unscratchable by a coin: glass.
  • A strand of identical beads at a very low price: resin.
The market

What Amber is actually worth

Specimen figures rather than gem figures, for material in honest condition. Most finds are worth very little, and saying so plainly is more useful than encouraging you.

Ranges by line
MaterialWhat it typically fetchesNote
Resin or plastic imitationNothingA few dollars a strand at a market
Copal, no inclusion$5 – 30 a pieceHonest under its own name
Pressed amber beads$10 – 60 a strandGenuine amber, reconstituted
Natural Baltic amber, clean$30 – 300 a piece by size and clarityColour and clarity
Baltic amber with a genuine insect$80 – 1,000+Species, completeness, clarity
Scientifically significant Burmese specimenFive figures and aboveA research object, not jewellery

Amber prices are set by inclusions above everything else, which is precisely why inclusions are the part most often manufactured. Burmese amber also carries sourcing questions that a buyer should ask about independently of authenticity.

Questions we are asked

How can I tell if amber is real?
Two tests settle most cases. Float it in saturated salt water: amber's specific gravity of about 1.05–1.09 lets it float, while polyester resin, phenolic plastic and glass sink. Then touch a briefly heated pin to a hidden spot: amber smells sweet and resinous, plastic smells acrid, and glass does not melt. Amber also takes a strong static charge after rubbing and fluoresces pale blue under UV.
Does real amber float in salt water?
Yes. Saturated brine reaches about 1.15 specific gravity and amber is 1.05–1.09, so it floats or hovers just below the surface. Most imitations sink. The exception to watch is polystyrene, which is light enough to float too, so confirm a float with a hot-pin smell test.
How do I know if an insect in amber is genuine?
Genuine inclusions are imperfect. Expect a contorted posture, missing or detached limbs, surrounding plant debris and bubbles, layered flow structure and fine stress fractures radiating from the body where the resin shrank. A whole, pristine, conspicuously large insect cleanly centred in optically clean material was placed there.
Is copal the same as amber?
No. Copal is genuine tree resin but far younger — thousands to a few million years against amber's tens of millions — and its polymerisation is incomplete. A drop of acetone on a hidden spot softens or clouds copal within a couple of minutes and leaves true amber unaffected.
Is amber a mineral or a gemstone?
Neither, strictly. It is fossilised tree resin, so it is organic in origin and classed as a mineraloid rather than a mineral. It is used as a gem material, which is why it sits in a mineral room, but it has no crystal structure and no fixed composition.
How hard is amber?
Very soft — 2 to 2.5 on the Mohs scale, which means a fingernail can mark it and a copper coin certainly will. That softness is why amber jewellery scratches easily, and why genuine amber is always cut and polished rather than moulded, so a mould seam indicates plastic.
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