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925 · Lovenhall Ring

The VERMEIL Mark

Sterling silver with a thick gold layer. Legitimately stamped 925, because the base is sterling.

The international millesimal mark for sterling silver3 references

Vermeil is gold over sterling silver, and in the United States the Federal Trade Commission sets a minimum: the gold layer must be at least 2.5 microns thick and of at least 10 karat fineness, over a sterling base. That makes it a genuine and clearly defined product rather than a marketing word, and considerably more durable than ordinary gold plating over brass.

It is properly stamped 925, because the substrate is sterling. So a gold-coloured ring stamped 925 is not a contradiction and not necessarily a fake — it is very likely vermeil, and the stamp is describing the metal underneath.

The practical point for an owner is that vermeil wears. The gold layer is thicker than plating but still measured in microns, and it will eventually thin at the contact points to reveal silver-white beneath — not a base metal colour, which is the reassuring part. It also cannot be polished aggressively, because polishing removes gold.

References and sizes

VERMEIL · 925 with a gold finish · Gold over sterling

Establish which of these you are holding before judging it. A genuine piece read against another reference's rules will look wrong when it is not.

Model-specific checks

What decides a VERMEIL

These apply to this model and not to the rest of 925. Work them alongside the maker's general checks, not instead of them.

01Decisive

Expect silver-white, not yellow-pink, where it has worn

Vermeil wearing through reveals sterling underneath — a bright silver-white. Gold plating over brass reveals a yellow-pink. That colour difference at the contact points separates the two immediately.

02Strong

A gold-coloured piece stamped 925 is not a contradiction

The 925 refers to the sterling base beneath the gold. It is the correct mark for vermeil, and reading it as evidence of a fake is a common mistake.

The market

What a VERMEIL does on the secondary market

Above plated base metal and below solid gold. The silver has scrap value; the gold layer effectively does not.

An orientation for honest, unrestored condition — never an appraisal, and never a quotation.

Questions we are asked

Why is my gold ring stamped 925?
Because the 925 describes the metal underneath. Gold-coloured jewellery stamped 925 is almost always vermeil or gold-plated sterling silver — the base is sterling, which is what the mark refers to. In the United States, vermeil legally requires a gold layer of at least 2.5 microns over a sterling base.
Is vermeil real gold?
The layer is real gold, and thicker than ordinary plating — at least 2.5 microns and at least 10 karat under US rules — but it is a layer over sterling silver rather than solid gold. It wears through at contact points eventually, revealing silver-white beneath rather than base metal.
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