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750 · Lovenhall Ring

The 18K White Gold Mark

18 karat gold alloyed white with palladium or nickel, and nearly always rhodium plated.

The millesimal mark for 18 karat gold, used worldwide

White gold is 18 karat gold with the balance chosen to bleach the colour: palladium in better work, nickel in cheaper and older pieces. Even so, the result is not white but a pale warm grey, so essentially all white gold jewellery is finished with a thin rhodium plating to give it the bright cold white buyers expect.

That plating is the source of most complaints about white gold, and it is not a fault. Rhodium is measured in fractions of a micron and wears off in a year or two of daily wear, at which point the ring looks faintly yellow-grey, especially on the underside of the shank. Replating is routine, inexpensive and expected — a jeweller will do it while you wait.

The nickel question matters for anyone with a metal sensitivity. Nickel-alloyed white gold is a common cause of contact dermatitis, and European rules limit nickel release from items in prolonged skin contact. Palladium white gold avoids the issue and costs more.

Model-specific checks

What decides a 18K White Gold

These apply to this model and not to the rest of 750. Work them alongside the maker's general checks, not instead of them.

01Decisive

Expect a warm grey where the rhodium has worn

A yellowish or greyish cast appearing on the underside of a shank is rhodium wearing off genuine white gold, not evidence of plated brass. Brass shows through pink or orange; worn white gold shows a pale warm grey.

02Strong

Ask whether the alloy is palladium or nickel

Both are legitimate 18 karat white gold. Palladium alloys are more expensive, greyer before plating and far less likely to cause a skin reaction. Nickel alloys are whiter and cheaper and are a common dermatitis trigger.

The market

What a 18K White Gold does on the secondary market

The same gold content as yellow 18k, so the same scrap value; retail differs by fashion.

An orientation for honest, unrestored condition — never an appraisal, and never a quotation.

Questions we are asked

Why has my white gold ring turned yellow?
The rhodium plating has worn off. White gold is gold alloyed to a pale warm grey and then rhodium-plated to look bright white, and that plating is a fraction of a micron thick — it typically wears through in a year or two of daily wear, first on the underside of the shank. Replating is routine and inexpensive.
Is white gold real gold?
Yes. 18 karat white gold is 75 percent gold, exactly as yellow 18 karat is; the difference is the remaining quarter, which uses palladium or nickel to bleach the colour rather than copper to warm it. Its scrap gold value is the same.
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Read the whole piece

The mark tells you what the metal claims to be. The instrument reads the setting and the stones together and gives a range to orient you — before anyone charges you for an appraisal.

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